Although it is just over a week into the rainy season, the weather is still cooperating for us. We drove about thirteen miles near the shore of the lake to see the Zhamei Lamaist Temple. It was not an easy ride. Last year there was a major landslide / mudslide that destroyed a long section of the road, closing it for several weeks. Although the road was passable now, we could see the devastation around us and many ruts made for a very bumpy ride.
The temple was actually a temple complex and we encountered workmen who were restoring one of the buildings. The main temple is largest Buddhist temple around the lake displaying a combination of Buddhist and Duba architecture. Originally, built in the Ming Dynasty the location was chosen by the Living Buddha after he saw an area of light and knew it needed to be built there. As we approached, several young monks were sitting at the entrance.
The entrance area was adorned with four ornate paintings depicting what appeared to be Buddhist gods each holding a different symbol representing rain, wind, tune, and smoothness. The respective symbols held were an umbrella, a sword, a musical instrument and lastly a snake. These pictures are found on every Tibetan Buddhist temple. On each roof peak was a carving of five animals, a rooster, tiger, phoenix, lion and horse, one behind the other. The eaves were painted with beautiful designs in bright colors. When the restoration of the entire temple complex is completed, it will be a sight to behold.
Inside, we strolled around looking at the numerous brightly colored silk hangings suspended from the ceiling and covering the massive posts. We were told that these serve to absorb sound so that the chanting of the monks is not distorted by echoes. Along the entire front of the temple stood butter decorations made of colored butter shaped into intricate designs. Behind these decorations, pictures of the Dalai Lamas were seen through glass enclosures.
We sat cross-legged on the carpet covered benches taking photos when one of the monks on the porch came in and sternly told us it wasn’t allowed. While we continued touring inside, the monks assembled on the benches and began their chanting. We quietly exited and figured that they were probably glad to see us go, for good reason.
Our next stop was the local market where we saw a pig wandering throughout the rows of tables. I wonder how much longer that pig will be strolling around searching for food before becoming food himself. In another row, live eels about four inches in length swam around in tubs and Elena told us they grow in the rice paddies. Tamara has now decided that she doesn’t want to work in the rice paddies.
Elena wanted to know the English name for some less common vegetables, such as cilantro, scallions, squash, zucchini plus several others that we did not recognize. As she picked them up, we supplied the English word and she quickly wrote it in her book. It was fun seeing her interest and quest for knowledge.
One old Naxi woman dressed in traditional garb was preparing a gelatinous dish in a plastic take-away bag for a customer, adding several spices, soy and other sauces. I asked her if I could take her picture and she shook her head no. Richard translated her words “I’m an old woman and I don’t want to lose my soul”. She had a big smile full of metal teeth and a twinkle in her eye as she said that. Superstition abounds in the countryside.
Talking about teeth, a dentist, and we use that term lightly, sat at a table covered with teeth and dentures. Can you imagine getting dental work done sitting out in the open, at a dirty table on bare ground with what looked like pliers and glue as tools? Novocain was not an option.
Before leaving the market, Elena and Tamara bought bananas, plums, rape seed and peaches. To weigh the fruit, they used a primitive hand held scale made from a metal tray, a wood bar and a single counterweight. We’re not sure if the weight was correct, but the price was right at about 75 cents for ten bananas. The women merchant threw in an extra banana and gave Garry, Rich and Tamara each a plum.
Before climbing into the van, a wisecrack was made by whom we will not name, about things being the same all over the world; while women shop, men just stand around bored. Well, guys, we’re still in the matriarchal Mosou territory - just get over it.
Our next planned stop for the day was to visit a Mosou family; however, the entire family was out in the fields working. At another family compound, a woman allowed us into the grandmother’s house and offered us green tea and sunflower seeds. The sunlight coming from a window in the roof was the only source of illumination in addition to the open door. From above, a beams of light with dust particles swirling in its path cut through the interior darkness with a laser like quality. The single large room was decorated with cheerful colors, and the furniture layout defined areas for sleeping, cooking, dining and socializing. There was a small altar on the wall and in the far corner a wooden death bed to be used upon the death of the grandmother. We sat around the dining table discussing with Elena the changes in Mosou society and ways to keep the culture intact. Many of their young children want to leave and as they leave, the Mosou traditions die.
Back in town, we had and excellent lunch of local dishes at the Internet Café/Restaurant, which had the only access available in the area. We sat at an outside table by Lugulu Lake checking email using their wireless network. Sitting there with our laptops connected to the internet in this remote area of Yunnan Province was mind-boggling, but towers dot the mountain ridges readily providing communication with the world. It never fails, we say we aren’t hungry and we don’t want much to eat. Somehow, we always wind up with a table full of empty plates.
The ride back to Lijiang seemed much shorter than when we traveled to the lake area. On the way, they played a mixed CD of American groups as we serpentined through the mountains of Yunnan Province.
Goodbye to the female dominated Mosou society…
Rich, Garry and Tamara or it should be, Tamara, Rich and Garry
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